Cycling to Aramoana

Cycling to Taiaroa Head

Walk to Heyward Point

Otago Rail Trail January 2005

Alwyn’s New Year Cycling Adventure

I had wanted to cycle the Rail Trail for a few years and finally made it happen. On January 5^th, Jenny drove me from Dunedin to Middlemarch, the official start of the Rail Trail. We stopped at the Cosy Dell Café for lunch of gourmet pies and frothy coffee. The proprietor filled my flask with more coffee and we drove onto Hyde. I wasn’t as fit as I could have been and chose not to cycle the first 20kms along the Strath Taieri. The day was hot and there was far enough to go. At Hyde the trail crosses the road and this is where I was set down, packed my panniers and took off across the first bridge and around a bluff, out of sight and into the journey. I was excited to finally be on my way but also apprehensive as to whether I was going to make it or not. The bike wasn’t comfortable at first, the new seat was bedding in and I wasn’t sure if the tyres were pumped up enough or if they would last on the gravel. The beautiful scenery quickly replaced my worries and the excitement of the adventure took over. 

It was a hot day and with helmet and shirt removed I pedalled comfortably, the track gently inclining, the gravel well packed, the meandering Taieri River at my side. There was an unusual greenness about the Taieri Gorge, the willow trees along the water ways, the grass studded with blue flowers and purple thistles. I crossed several viaducts - impressive timber structures spanning the rivers- one 32metres high. There are 60 bridges in total on the Rail Trail, built from the early 1900’s, they are now all re-decked by the Department of Conservation for the cyclists and walkers.  Of special note was the stone bridge at Tiroiti.

As the Taieri Gorge opened out, the Taieri Lakes appeared unexpectedly, flooded basins in the marshland amidst the now brown and tussocky heat of the Otago hinterland. The railway line was long and straight and hazy and gradually the little Waipiata pub appeared as a shimmering yellow oasis right beside the trail. I had been riding for two hours now and had worked up a good thirst. I sat with a handle of Speights outside in the garden bar and watched the world go by, well actually nobody went by, it was too hot.  

My beer finished all too soon and I was back on the bike, a bit stiff and with a numb bum heading for Ranfurly. Another hour of the longest, straightest stretches of trail riding took me through pleasantly smelling fields of lush clover and lucerne, pink and purple flowers amongst dark green foliage. The trail still inclined gently uphill all the way to Ranfurly where the route took me chuffing into the station, up onto the platform and straight across the road to the Ranfurly Lion Hotel. Room number 11 and lucky I was too to get a room on account of the Omakau Races. The pub was Art Deco as is a lot of the town, dated with red carpet and high ceilings, now a draw card.  A beer and a shower were followed by a snack and walk to ease the growing stiffness and I was in bed by 9.30pm.

 Day 2

I was greeted by a misty, moisty, foggy morning where I couldn’t see across the street. I put my hat on and climbed on the bike - legs and bum and knees complaining – heading towards to Wedderburn along with hundreds of rabbits. I could only see as far as the fences on either side of the track. The trail continued upwards around gullies and the clouds eventually dispersed until at 613m above sea level I was at Wedderburn. Here was the green shed, made famous by Graham Sydney’s painting, amongst the great expanses of the Central Otago landscape. Good timing, a passing shower, and I had somewhere to shelter.

I was now feeling the push uphill as the Rail Trail reached its highest point, the top of Rough Ridge which is 618metres above sea level, but oh what a good feeling to have reached the top. Stopped at the top was a man and his bike with a trailer and two small children in it. They had stopped for a rest and to wait for their mother who was still coming. A few quick thoughts passed by, huge respect for the man being able to bike himself up here as well as the kids, what a magic place this is that lets us do things like this and also whether there was enough room for me in the trailer!!! I said my best wishes and headed off down quite a steep part and met the mum on they way up - don’t know why she was puffing, maybe it was a sympathy thing!

My legs enjoyed the downhill run to Oturehua but with extra speed comes harder bumps which were not appreciated on other parts of the body!

Oturehua often has the hottest and coldest temperatures in New Zealand but luckily today was not extreme and I was cycling well. It was still only 10pm and I had travelled 25km. You just have to get off the railway track here and check out the Gilchrist’s country store - the shelves are full of  historic containers some of my era and some long before, the wooden floors and high original timber roof  really step you back in time. However they have a pie warmer and a good stock of Jimmy’s Pies.

From Oturehua to Lauder was another 23km and very spectacular. Again I was lucky to have an overcast sky the Ida Valley could be very uncomfortable on a hot day, the track winds its way along the wide valley past the Idaburn Dam famous for its winter curling bonspiels and the famous “Brass Monkey” motorbike rally grounds. I’ve driven this road many times but being on the track gives you a whole different look at the expanse of farm country there is here, and again it was good just to stop and listen to sounds of the peace and smell the sweet and not so sweet smells of the country.

Up Blackstone Hill towards the Poolburn Gorge I had read a little about this great place and was not disappointed. When you reach the Gorge the river is already flowing well and I found myself wondering at the catchment area. The 37mtr high Poolburn Viaduct was just the place to stop for lunch and marvel at the engineering skill of the people who built this amazing thing. “ I wonder how they got the big piece across the span” I asked a lady sitting not too far away “ Read the sign” she said obviously not aware I was a man and a tourist!! It’s a must see bridge even if you only walk in this far.

The country-side is spectacular as the Manuherikia river races through the valley and under the longest bridge on the trail at 110.6 mtrs with a clever curve. I reckon that was so the engine driver could count if he still had all his carriages! 

There are 2 tunnels cut into the schist bluffs and if you are considering this trip be sure to pack a torch one of the tunnels has a bend in it and even though you are sure you are in the middle of the track it is black and I found I had to stop and have a feel for the walls. Even when the light at the end does appear your eyes focus on that and you still can’t see where you are. My thoughts at this point were why do we not have more vehicle tunnels, they managed to cut these ones through years ago with the equipment they had then but today we tend to scar the country side cutting roads round bluffs and over hills that require much more maintenance.

Being school holidays and the weekend there were lots of families on this section of the trip. Some little kids had really small bikes but were all in good humor given the hill they had rode up to get to this point. They had come up from Chatto Creek for the day out. And now a long sweeping downhill section of the trail, the clouds had cleared and the sun was warm, the Vipers Buglos (blue flowers) were everywhere along the sides of the track and the fields were in full bloom - a magic sight as you looked over the valley. I had intended to stop for the night at Omakau but as I was feeling good and it was only 3pm I decided to have a cup of coffee and keep going. I was thinking that if I did stop I may not get going again, my final destination would be Cromwell and in the back of my mind was the hill out of Clyde!!

After Omakau the country side turns into rolling hills with craggy outcrops of rock typical of the area and in the distance I could see Alexandra my new destination for the night. It was only an extra 30kms but I knew I should be able to manage it. There are some very long straight sections of track here and sometimes in the heat it looked like Alexandra was getting further away. Sure enough, it is summer and all the camps and motels were full so I went to the Criterian Pub in the centre of town and got a room and a well deserved beer. I was right about the stopping bit - the body soon stiffened up and the only thing to do was sleep and dream of the Clyde Hill tomorrow!

Day 3

I set off late the next morning a bit stiff but now on the last leg of the journey which set off through suburban Alexandra and led me across a wooden trestle bridge - the Muttontown viaduct, through orchards, vineyards and lifestyle blocks. Once again the Central Otago sun was hot but my first stop for the morning was at the Clyde Rail Head - the official end of the Rail Trail, a 25km ride. I felt very satisfied at what this old body had achieved, and then leaving the Rail Trail, I crossed the main highway and rode into Clyde. With some mental preparation over a couple of cups of coffee in a pleasant little cafe I attacked the hill with venom - another challenge completed without too much added pain.

Lake Dunstan lay gloriously ahead - a beautiful turquoise blue set below the dusty brown mountains. Now I was on a sealed road and progress was good but different. I could already feel the warmth and welcome I would get at Eugenie's, a house in Cromwell, and I was not disappointed - the bath was run, the tea was made and I felt almost like a new man.

I would recommend this trip to anyone at any level of fitness, just take your time - there are plenty of place to stop overnight, the scenery is just magic and if you enjoy biking it sure beats riding along the roads with inconsiderate cars and trucks racing past you all too close.

Go do it and tell me about your experience

Happy riding!